Historically Dressed

1840s Dress!

2012-05-28T19:06:00.001-07:00

The sleeves of this dress have been an all-out fiasco, and I'm not entirely sure this is exactly the bodice I wanted. . . But in the interest of getting it done in time for Dress U - and because I have enough fabric to make a whole second bodice if I don't like this one - I'm plunging forward!

Starting the 1840s dress. . .

2012-05-18T16:03:00.002-07:00

I've set aside the bonnet for now, so I can focus on the dress, and get it done in time for Dress U 2012! Here is my first draft of the bodice, and with the petticoats. (First time wearing the petticoats over a corset! Though, I'm still not wearing a chemise, and it's not the right corset. . . That is a project for a future date, when I have more time!)

And a bit closer up, front and back:

Lizzy Bennett bonnet is begun!

2012-05-18T15:55:00.002-07:00

I've finally got around to putting this pattern of mine to good use! I've got the brim almost completely done, and the "pouf" is all gathered and ready to be attached. Here is the brim:

More on the Regency Two-Piece. . .

2012-05-18T15:51:00.000-07:00

Done except for hooks and eyes!

It looks pretty much the same as in the last pictures, I know. . . But I assure you, it's not! Between those sets of pictures, it went from sloppily pleated/gathered, to beautiful practically uniform 1/2" pleats!

Also, I've started patterning the top half of this two-piece ensemble. . .

It doesn't look right yet, but, this is the first draft! You can see where I've penciled in potential changes to wher the seams land. I'm currently letting this simmer while I contemplate what I want to do with it. . . And meanwhile, here is the front, which needs a TON of work, but still, it's a start!

First steps towards a 1910s ensemble. . .

2012-05-18T15:41:00.003-07:00

I've been plugging away at making the "Armistice Blouse" by Folkwear (#210), and so far, it's great! Seams and markings line up, and everything is well explained. Love it! The only thing I don't love is that I can not find buttons to match my fabric! So for now, the center panel is just pinned in place. . .

The sleeves are under way too. . . I did the little plackets for the openings, but still need to assemble and attach the cuffs. . . And then set the sleeves in to the blouse of course!

Brown Spotty Two-Piece: Underdress/Skirt/Thing

2012-04-25T10:00:00.001-07:00

I've been slowly-but-surely working away on the brown spotty two-piece Regency dress. The underdress, or skirt-with-bodice, is almost done, and the jacket/bodice that goes over it is in the progress of being patterned. Before I went ahead and finished the underdress (aka, went pleat-crazy), I wanted to make sure I had the length right, so I just gathered and basted the skirts to the bodice. I decided it needs to be just a tad shorter, so I'll make that change, and go back and pleat instead of gather (as that's what the original had), and finish the center front, and this half of the ensemble will be done!

Here are a couple of pictures I snapped while fitting:

New Project: Brown Spotty Two-Piece Dress, c. 1790-1800

2012-04-15T18:46:00.001-07:00

I decided today is the day I would start this ensemble, starting with the "skirt," which is attached to a sleeveless bodice. I found it interesting that there is almost no shaping to the pieces of the bodice; there is just a side seam and the center front opening seam. I had my doubts as to whether or not I would be able to achieve a good fit without darts, but surprisingly enough, it worked! I think it has to do with how low-cut the bodice is in front. Now that my pattern is sorted out, and my fabric ironed and ready to go, I am ready to start actually sewing! I ripped my skirt panels, and will begin sewing them in front of a good movie tonight. . .

1910s Princess Slip Patterning

2012-03-30T19:23:00.003-07:00

I decided to work on more of my underpinnings tonight. I probably should have resumed the 1910s brassiere, but I felt more like patterning than sewing, so I pulled out the Edwardian Modiste, and started working on scaling up the Princess Slip (page 344). This was my first time using the "American System of Cutting Rulers," and I am IN LOVE! I was able to choose the width based on my bust size, and length based on my real length. And since I'm short-waisted, I used one scale for the waist-up half of the pattern, but a larger scale for the waist-down. I feel like this could result in a fairly accurate pattern! The only adjustment I anticipate having to make is possibly letting out the waist area, because I have a feeling the average woman in 1909 had a smaller bust-to-waist ratio than I, even with my corset! I'll have to wait until I mock this up to know for sure. . .

Finished 1910s Corset!

2012-03-18T11:19:00.001-07:00

I finally got the grommet situation resolved, and just finished putting grommets in my corset! Here are a few pictures snapped while wearing the wrong chemise for it, and without tightening it properly from the waist down. (I was too excited and impatient to take pictures!)

New Page: Free 1910s Brassiere Pattern!

2012-03-05T20:05:00.004-08:00

I just wanted to let folks know that I have added a new page to my web site, for a free 1910s Brassiere pattern, which I have taken off an antique from my collection.

You can download the pattern, and read all about it: here

Enjoy! :)

1910s Brassiere Reproduction

2012-03-03T15:24:00.001-08:00

My 1910s corset still needs grommets. That tool I ordered ended up being the wrong one for the job, and so I had to place yet another order (this time I just ordered 1/4" grommets and will use my old tool) and then wait forever again. So, meanwhile, I got started on the brassiere. I'm copying an antique from my collection, and so far, have taken the pattern and made a quick mock-up of it. You can see both below. . .

I've also found some trimmings that will work great for the entredeux between seams and the trim along the bottom edge of the bra!

Now my only dilemma is what to do about the trimming that is inserted and matching trimming along the upper edge of the bra. I suspect it's bobbin lace, or some combination of lace techniques. . . But regardless of what it is, at present, I lack the skills to make a reproduction of it! So I must decide if I should just choose a lace I like for the top and do without inserts, or if I can come up with a better idea. . . Hmm. . .

1910s Corset, awaiting only grommets. . .

2012-02-20T14:10:00.002-08:00

I applied binding to the corset today, but was unable to set in grommets as I did not have the right size setting tools. Usually, I buy size 0 grommets, but without thinking, I bought 00 this time, so I was faced with either buying more grommets or a new setting tool. I decided on the tool since I have a package of 100 size 00 grommets sitting here, and that could do several corsets! So now, I set this aside while I wait for my new grommet setting tool to arrive. . .

1910s Corset Progress

2012-02-12T10:52:00.000-08:00

I got derailed from the corset project by having to travel for work, and then bringing back a hideous cold. So the corset has been sitting looking like this for quite some time, awaiting only binding and grommets:

1910s Corset Assembly

2012-01-27T20:29:00.000-08:00

I mocked up two of the three pattern options: the Bridges on the Body, and Jen Thompson's. Both corsets had very nice shapes, but the Bridges on the Body was almost the perfect size for me, so I went with that one. I cut out all the pieces the other day, and this evening, I began assembly. I didn't get too far - just put in the busk, sewed one other seam, and pinned one more. However, Taffy thinks I did a fine job with that busk. . .

New project!

2012-01-10T06:35:00.000-08:00

So in light of the fact that my old 1910s corset was a pretty good shape, but had a busk that was too long - and was too long overall - and therefore would be totally uncomfortable. . . And the thought of trying to take it apart and alter it was revolting (and wouldn't save any money since I'd have to buy a new busk either way), I decided to go ahead and make a new corset.

Yesterday, I printed out my pattern options, cut them out, and taped them all together. Left to right they are the pattern everyone is using over at Bridges on the Body, the Teens Era Corset from Festive Attyre, and the c. 1911 corset from Corsets and Crinolines.

Not sure yet which one I will work with. It depends on the mocking up, which has yet to take place!

The First 1840s Dress

2011-10-19T16:14:00.000-07:00

Now that my petticoats are nearly done, it's finally time to start planning for dresses to go over them! To begin with, I'm going to make a simple dress with clean lines from some blue and white reproduction printed cotton I found locally at a great price in the spring. For the bonnet, I purchased some pale gray silk taffeta, and some blue silk taffeta ribbons. I suspect I will add more trimmings to the bonnet, but I'll wait until I have it together to decide what else it needs.

Patterning the bonnet is already well under way. I have a few little tweaks to make to my pattern, and then I will be ready to cut into the buckram!

The Flounced Petticoat is almost done!

2011-10-17T09:07:00.000-07:00

The flounced petticoat is almost done! I just have to finish the ends of each flounce. I wasn't sure how I was going to go about that, so I'm stalling a bit while I think. But, in the mean time, I got to try it on! This is it, over my corded petticoat:

Finished Mitts!

2011-10-11T14:07:00.000-07:00

As of yesterday, the mitts are officially finished!

Flounced Petticoat

2011-09-26T13:42:00.001-07:00

Over the weekend I finished gathering all the ruffles onto cords, and they are now ready to be applied to the foundation of the petticoat!

New event pictures!

2011-09-22T14:59:00.000-07:00

Added pictures from our recent trip to King Richard's Faire!

c. 1560s-70s Ensemble: Done (for now)!

2011-09-19T17:19:00.000-07:00

This year, I was able to get the dress ready in time to be worn to our annual visit to King Richard's Faire! Huzzah!

I am really happy with it for the most part, but I do wish the skirts had a little more oomph, as the kirtle in particular kind of clings to the legs. So, at some point I might revisit this project and see how I could accomplish that. . . And someday I might upgrade my cotton smock for a more period-correct linen one. . . But for now, I'm calling this project done! :)

First draft of the Lizzy Bennett bonnet. . .

2011-08-01T17:01:00.000-07:00

I've been battling some serious sleevil with this dress, so I've put it on hold, and am instead working on the bonnet. This is my first mock-up of the bonnet, and while my brim doesn't match the one from the film, I'm not sure I want to change it since I think I like the shape I came up with better! I'm going to temporarily attach the back to the brim (right now, it's just pinned into the styrafoam head) so that I can try it on and see if I like how it frames my face. (Oh, and the giant red bows are just to mark bow placement. The final bows will be much smaller!)

Hemmed!

2011-06-08T13:34:00.001-07:00

All of the flounces are hemmed! By hand! With uncooperative cotton thread! ;)

Switching gears for a bit. . .

2011-06-03T09:13:00.000-07:00

In light of some sleevil I am suffering on my Lizzy Bennett dress, I decided to switch gears and work on something that doesn't involve sleeves!

Right now, I am completely obsessed with the 1840s. I have fabric to start one dress that I am really excited about, and already have two more 1840s ensembles that I'd like to do after that!

So, my current project is going to be a flounced petticoat like the one you see in my sketch below. I've already got the base layer assembled, and am just starting making flounces. I'm sewing this one all by hand and even only this far in, I'm already questioning my sanity. . .

New Project: Lizzy Bennett Ensemble

2011-05-19T13:49:00.000-07:00

The Colin Firth/Jennifer Ehle version of "Pride and Prejudice" has to be one of my favorite films of all time! In particular, I just love pretty much the entire wardrobe of Jennifer Ehle as Elizabeth Bennett. In particular, I love the mustard-colored spencer, and floral print dress that she sometimes wears with it (and other times with a black velvet spencer of a similar style, or even by itself). As far as bonnets go, the puffy gathered bonnet is definitely my favorite, and I think it will be a good size and shape for me since I have a very small head, and sometimes large bonnets with wide brims look a bit ridiculous on me!

For this ensemble, I'm not going for 100% authentic reproduction, but rather, more of the feel of the outfit. I am aiming to match the style, but not so worried about the fabrics themselves.

The dress is a pretty simple style, with really the only flourish being the ties at the wrist, which I adore. My fabric is not close to the original, but I think it has a similar feel and color.

For the spencer, I really decided to do my own thing! I stumbled on to this lovely gold colored cotton velvet, and felt it would be close enough to give the feel of the one in the film, and also look great with my dress fabric. Plus, the price was fantastic!

I only have one word to describe this bonnet: Love!!! It's just so fabulous, and I want the style exactly like this. It looks like it is just simply gathered, but it does seem to have little bows where the gathers end, so I suppose I could get a similar look by making channels and running ribbons through them, tying them in bows at the end. I'll have to experiment and see what I end up liking the best! For this one, I am taking the biggest detour fabric-wise, and completely switching out the color. I don't have any place to buy nice silk taffeta locally, and I thought trying to match or coordinate a fabric that is close to the original, and still looks nice with my fabrics for the dress and spencer, was going to be tricky. So I decided to just pick another color all together, and I went with a sort of olive green color

So there are the plans! Patterning and mocking up of the dress are already well under way, so stay tuned for another post soon!