Brown Spotty Two-Piece: Underdress/Skirt/Thing

I've been slowly-but-surely working away on the brown spotty two-piece Regency dress. The underdress, or skirt-with-bodice, is almost done, and the jacket/bodice that goes over it is in the progress of being patterned. Before I went ahead and finished the underdress (aka, went pleat-crazy), I wanted to make sure I had the length right, so I just gathered and basted the skirts to the bodice. I decided it needs to be just a tad shorter, so I'll make that change, and go back and pleat instead of gather (as that's what the original had), and finish the center front, and this half of the ensemble will be done!

Here are a couple of pictures I snapped while fitting:

   

New Project: Brown Spotty Two-Piece Dress, c. 1790-1800

I decided today is the day I would start this ensemble, starting with the "skirt," which is attached to a sleeveless bodice. I found it interesting that there is almost no shaping to the pieces of the bodice; there is just a side seam and the center front opening seam. I had my doubts as to whether or not I would be able to achieve a good fit without darts, but surprisingly enough, it worked! I think it has to do with how low-cut the bodice is in front. Now that my pattern is sorted out, and my fabric ironed and ready to go, I am ready to start actually sewing! I ripped my skirt panels, and will begin sewing them in front of a good movie tonight. . .

1910s Princess Slip Patterning

I decided to work on more of my underpinnings tonight. I probably should have resumed the 1910s brassiere, but I felt more like patterning than sewing, so I pulled out the Edwardian Modiste, and started working on scaling up the Princess Slip (page 344). This was my first time using the "American System of Cutting Rulers," and I am IN LOVE! I was able to choose the width based on my bust size, and length based on my real length. And since I'm short-waisted, I used one scale for the waist-up half of the pattern, but a larger scale for the waist-down. I feel like this could result in a fairly accurate pattern! The only adjustment I anticipate having to make is possibly letting out the waist area, because I have a feeling the average woman in 1909 had a smaller bust-to-waist ratio than I, even with my corset! I'll have to wait until I mock this up to know for sure. . .

Finished 1910s Corset!

I finally got the grommet situation resolved, and just finished putting grommets in my corset! Here are a few pictures snapped while wearing the wrong chemise for it, and without tightening it properly from the waist down. (I was too excited and impatient to take pictures!)

 

New Page: Free 1910s Brassiere Pattern!

I just wanted to let folks know that I have added a new page to my web site, for a free 1910s Brassiere pattern, which I have taken off an antique from my collection.



You can download the pattern, and read all about it: here

Enjoy! :)

1910s Brassiere Reproduction

My 1910s corset still needs grommets. That tool I ordered ended up being the wrong one for the job, and so I had to place yet another order (this time I just ordered 1/4" grommets and will use my old tool) and then wait forever again. So, meanwhile, I got started on the brassiere. I'm copying an antique from my collection, and so far, have taken the pattern and made a quick mock-up of it. You can see both below. . .



I've also found some trimmings that will work great for the entredeux between seams and the trim along the bottom edge of the bra!



Now my only dilemma is what to do about the trimming that is inserted and matching trimming along the upper edge of the bra. I suspect it's bobbin lace, or some combination of lace techniques. . . But regardless of what it is, at present, I lack the skills to make a reproduction of it! So I must decide if I should just choose a lace I like for the top and do without inserts, or if I can come up with a better idea. . . Hmm. . .

1910s Corset, awaiting only grommets. . .

I applied binding to the corset today, but was unable to set in grommets as I did not have the right size setting tools. Usually, I buy size 0 grommets, but without thinking, I bought 00 this time, so I was faced with either buying more grommets or a new setting tool. I decided on the tool since I have a package of 100 size 00 grommets sitting here, and that could do several corsets! So now, I set this aside while I wait for my new grommet setting tool to arrive. . .