And now with a hat!

Today I attended a stroll and tea which required a hat as part of the dress code, so of course I started mine last night. ;) This is just a cheap party store straw hat, which got soaked and shaped and left over night to dry - which it didn't! So this morning, I spent time going over it with my hair dryer, which got it mostly dry. Then I took a long strip of fabric and fashioned it into something bow-ish. It's not perfect, but hey, it worked! And, being ever so slightly damp meant I was able to shape it a bit more once I had it on. Here it is in the picture below, worn too far off to the side, because during the course of the stroll, I discovered this hat is definitely a two-hat-pin hat!

1910s Ensemble Finished!

I managed to finish the Armistice blouse (well, minus closures, as I have yet to find buttons I like well enough, and may just use hooks and eyes instead), as well as whip up a skirt from Butterick #4092, in time to wear at Dress U last weekend!

 

First steps towards a 1910s ensemble. . .

I've been plugging away at making the "Armistice Blouse" by Folkwear (#210), and so far, it's great! Seams and markings line up, and everything is well explained. Love it! The only thing I don't love is that I can not find buttons to match my fabric! So for now, the center panel is just pinned in place. . .



The sleeves are under way too. . . I did the little plackets for the openings, but still need to assemble and attach the cuffs. . . And then set the sleeves in to the blouse of course!

1910s Princess Slip Patterning

I decided to work on more of my underpinnings tonight. I probably should have resumed the 1910s brassiere, but I felt more like patterning than sewing, so I pulled out the Edwardian Modiste, and started working on scaling up the Princess Slip (page 344). This was my first time using the "American System of Cutting Rulers," and I am IN LOVE! I was able to choose the width based on my bust size, and length based on my real length. And since I'm short-waisted, I used one scale for the waist-up half of the pattern, but a larger scale for the waist-down. I feel like this could result in a fairly accurate pattern! The only adjustment I anticipate having to make is possibly letting out the waist area, because I have a feeling the average woman in 1909 had a smaller bust-to-waist ratio than I, even with my corset! I'll have to wait until I mock this up to know for sure. . .

Finished 1910s Corset!

I finally got the grommet situation resolved, and just finished putting grommets in my corset! Here are a few pictures snapped while wearing the wrong chemise for it, and without tightening it properly from the waist down. (I was too excited and impatient to take pictures!)

 

New Page: Free 1910s Brassiere Pattern!

I just wanted to let folks know that I have added a new page to my web site, for a free 1910s Brassiere pattern, which I have taken off an antique from my collection.



You can download the pattern, and read all about it: here

Enjoy! :)

1910s Brassiere Reproduction

My 1910s corset still needs grommets. That tool I ordered ended up being the wrong one for the job, and so I had to place yet another order (this time I just ordered 1/4" grommets and will use my old tool) and then wait forever again. So, meanwhile, I got started on the brassiere. I'm copying an antique from my collection, and so far, have taken the pattern and made a quick mock-up of it. You can see both below. . .



I've also found some trimmings that will work great for the entredeux between seams and the trim along the bottom edge of the bra!



Now my only dilemma is what to do about the trimming that is inserted and matching trimming along the upper edge of the bra. I suspect it's bobbin lace, or some combination of lace techniques. . . But regardless of what it is, at present, I lack the skills to make a reproduction of it! So I must decide if I should just choose a lace I like for the top and do without inserts, or if I can come up with a better idea. . . Hmm. . .

1910s Corset, awaiting only grommets. . .

I applied binding to the corset today, but was unable to set in grommets as I did not have the right size setting tools. Usually, I buy size 0 grommets, but without thinking, I bought 00 this time, so I was faced with either buying more grommets or a new setting tool. I decided on the tool since I have a package of 100 size 00 grommets sitting here, and that could do several corsets! So now, I set this aside while I wait for my new grommet setting tool to arrive. . .

1910s Corset Progress

I got derailed from the corset project by having to travel for work, and then bringing back a hideous cold. So the corset has been sitting looking like this for quite some time, awaiting only binding and grommets:

1910s Corset Assembly

I mocked up two of the three pattern options: the Bridges on the Body, and Jen Thompson's. Both corsets had very nice shapes, but the Bridges on the Body was almost the perfect size for me, so I went with that one. I cut out all the pieces the other day, and this evening, I began assembly. I didn't get too far - just put in the busk, sewed one other seam, and pinned one more. However, Taffy thinks I did a fine job with that busk. . .

New project!

So in light of the fact that my old 1910s corset was a pretty good shape, but had a busk that was too long - and was too long overall - and therefore would be totally uncomfortable. . . And the thought of trying to take it apart and alter it was revolting (and wouldn't save any money since I'd have to buy a new busk either way), I decided to go ahead and make a new corset.

Yesterday, I printed out my pattern options, cut them out, and taped them all together. Left to right they are the pattern everyone is using over at Bridges on the Body, the Teens Era Corset from Festive Attyre, and the c. 1911 corset from Corsets and Crinolines.



Not sure yet which one I will work with. It depends on the mocking up, which has yet to take place!